Argulosis - penyakit ikan

Argulosis


Penyebab : Argulus sp.
Bio-Ekologi Patogen :
• Parasit ini dikenal sebagai "kutu ikan" dan penghisap darah, berbentuk datar. dan lebih nampak seperti piring.
• Melukai tubuh ikan dengan bantuan enzim cytolytic, selain pada kulit, kutu ini juga sering dijumpai di bawah tutup insang ikan.
• Hampir semua jenis ikan air tawar rentan terhadap infeksi parasit ini.
• Pada intensitas serangan yang tinggi. ikan dewasapun dapat mengalami kematian karena kekurangan darah.


Gejala Klinis :
• Secara visual parasit ini tampak seperti kutu yang menempel pada tubuh ikan. disertai dengan pendarahan di sekitar tempat gigitannya.
• Iritasi kulit, hilang keseimbangan, berenang zig-zag, melompat ke permukaan air dan menggosok-gosokkan badannya pada benda keras yang ada di sekitarnya.


Diagnosa :
• Secara visual terlihat adanya parasit yang menempel pada tubuh ikan


Pengendalian:
• Pengeringan dasar kolam yang diikuti dengan pengapuran.
• Perendaman dapat dilakukan dengan:
✓ Larutan Dylox pada dosis 0,25 ppm selama 24 jam atau lebih di kolam.
✓ Larutan Amonium Klorida (NH4CI) pada dosis 1,0 -1,5% selama 15 menit, atau garam dapur pada dosis 1,25% selama 15 menit.
✓ Larutan Dichlorvos 0,2 mg/L selama 24 jam atau lebih, setiap minggu selama 4 minggu berturut-turut
✓ Garam dapur 500 – 1000 ppm selama 24 jam atau lebih, diulang setiap minggu selama 4 kali pemberian
✓ Potassium permanganate (PK) 2-5 mg/L selama 24 jam atau lebih.


sumber : Kementerian Kelautan dan Perikanan, Direktorat Jenderal Perikanan Budidaya, Direktorat Kesehatan Ikan dan Lingkungan, 2010

Lerniasis (fish disease)

Lerniasis (fish disease)

Cause: Lemaeae cyprinaceae and L. arcuata
Bio - Ecology:
• The parasite is known as anchor worm (anchor worm).
• Sticking to the body of the fish with the "anchor" the stabbing and develop under the skin.
• The parasite is equipped with two egg sacs will be seen hanging outside the body of the fish.
• Almost all freshwater fish species susceptible to this parasitic infection, particularly the size of the seed.
• At high levels of infection can lead to serious cases of death.

Clinical Symptoms:
• Looks like an arrow that pierced the body of the fish. Sometimes the moss parasites on the body so that the infected fish looks like carrying a green flag
• There was a wound or bleeding at the site where the patch. In fish seed puncture it can reach internal organs so that it can lead to death
Diagnosis:
• Visually looks a parasite that attach to the fish body
Control:
• Precipitation and filtering incoming water.
• Destruction of infected fish and draining the pond, followed by calcification.
• Soaking with:
✓ formalin solution at 250 ppm for 15 minutes.
✓ Abate solution at a dose of 1 ppm (aquarium) and 1.5 ppm (Pool)
✓ dichlorvos solution 0.2 mg / L for 24 hours or more, every week for 4 consecutive weeks

sumber : Kementerian Kelautan dan Perikanan, Direktorat Jenderal Perikanan Budidaya, Direktorat Kesehatan Ikan dan Lingkungan, 2010

Lerniasis (penyakit Ikan)

Lerniasis

Penyebab : Lemaeae cyprinaceae dan L. arcuata
Bio — Ekologi :
• Parasit ini dikenal sebagai cacing jangkar (anchor worm).
• Menempel ke tubuh ikan dengan "jangkar" yang menusuk dan berkembang di bawah kulit.
• Badan parasit dilengkapi dengan dua buah kantung telur akan terlihat menggantung di luar tubuh ikan.
• Hampir semua jenis ikan air tawar rentan terhadap infeksi parasit ini, terutama yang berukuran benih.
• Pada tingkat infeksi yang tinggi dapat mengakibatkan kasus kematian yang serius.

Gejala Klinis :
• Terlihat menyerupai panah yang menusuk tubuh ikan. Terkadang pada tubuh parasit ditumbuhi lumut sehingga ikan yang terinfeksi terlihat seperti membawa bendera hijau
• Terjadi luka atau pendarahan pada lokasi tempat penempelannya. Pada benih ikan dalamnya tusukan bisa mencapai organ dalam sehingga dapat mengakibatkan kematian
Diagnosa :
• Secara visual terlihat adanya parasit yang menempel pada tubuh ikan
Pengendalian :
• Pengendapan dan penyaringan air masuk.
• Pemusnahan ikan yang terinfeksi dan pengeringan dasar kolam yang diikuti dengan pengapuran.
• Perendaman dengan :
✓ Larutan formalin pada 250 ppm selama 15 menit.
✓ Larutan Abate pada dosis 1 ppm (akuarium) dan 1,5 ppm (kolam)
✓ Larutan Dichlorvos 0,2 mg/L selama 24 jam atau lebih, setiap minggu selama 4 minggu berturut-turut

sumber : Kementerian Kelautan dan Perikanan, Direktorat Jenderal Perikanan Budidaya, Direktorat Kesehatan Ikan dan Lingkungan, 2010

VALIDASI DATA STATISTIK PERIKANAN BUDIDAYA DIMAJUKAN WAKTUNYA

VALIDASI DATA STATISTIK PERIKANAN BUDIDAYA DIMAJUKAN WAKTUNYA

Dalam rangka percepatan publikasi data statistik perikanan budidaya, kegiatan validasi data yang dikirim oleh dinas propinsi akan dipercepat waktunya mendahului kegiatan forum koordinasi statistik perikanan budidaya. Validasi data statistik perikanan budidaya pada tahun-tahun sebelumnya diselenggarakan pada kuartal III tahun yang bersangkutan menyebabkan publikasi data statistik perikanan budidaya menjadi terlambat dan kurang up to date. Dengan didahulukannya kegiatan validasi diharapkan publikasi data statistik akan lebih cepat dan dapat segera dimanfaatkan oleh stakeholder.



Validasi data statistik perikanan budidaya yang akan dilakukan meliputi volume dan nilai produksi perjenis budidaya, Rumah Tangga Perikanan Budidaya (RTP) perjenis budidaya, dan luas lahan perjenis budidaya.



Statistik produksi benih mulai dipublikasikan tahun 2009 dan akan dilakukan validasinya bersamaan dengan pelaksanaan validasi data produksi pembesaran. Validasi yang dilakukan terhadap statistik produksi benih terbatas pada volume dan nilai produksi saja.



Begitu pula dengan statistik perikanan budidaya ikan hias yang akan dilakukan validasinya pada saat yang sama. Publikasi statistik perikanan budidaya ikan hias ini, sejalan dengan program perikanan budidaya untuk mengembangkan kawasan-kawasan komoditas potensial seperti ikan hias.



Untuk keperluan tersebut, diminta kepada Dinas Kelautan dan Perikanan Propinsi seluruh Indonesia dapat menyiapkan data-data yang akan divalidasi pada acara tersebut

sumber : http://www.perikanan-budidaya.kkp.go.id

Benediasis

Benediasis

Cause: Benedinia sp. and Neo Benedinia sp.

Bio-Ecology Pathogens:
• blood eaters' blood feeder ", infect marine fish, especially snapper, and grouper.
• Parasites belonging to the Capsalid monogenea, which is a kind of worm trematoda.
• serious cases generally occur in fish culture in floating net (KJA).
• If the eye can cause blindness, and the resulting wound is the entrance for secondary bacterial infections.
• Deaths due to heavy infection can reach 30%.


Clinical symptoms:
• Wounds and bleeding at the site of the bite, and this looks visually parasites attached to the body of the fish, especially on the scales or on the fin (visible after the infected fish marinated in fresh water for several minutes)
• In severe infection the parasite can infect the eye, so that the eyelets will look white.


Diagnosis:
• Visually looks a parasite that attach to the fish's body, if placed in freshwater fish

Control:
• shed the parasite in the container is limited by using fresh water for 2-5 minutes.
• Soaking in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) at a dose of 150 ppm for 10-30 minutes.
• After the parasitic loss, the fish was transferred to another container to prevent any secondary infection by bacteria in the parasite bites.


source : Kementerian Kelautan dan Perikanan, Direktorat Jenderal Perikanan Budidaya, Direktorat Kesehatan Ikan dan Lingkungan, 2010

Benediasis ( penyakit ikan )

Benediasis

Penyebab: Benedinia sp. dan Neo Benedinia sp.

Bio —Ekologi Patogen:
• Pemakan darah "blood feeder", menginfeksi ikan air laut, terutama kakap, dan kerapu.
• Parasit tergolong pada Capsalid monogenea, yaitu sejenis cacing trematoda.
• Kasus serius umumnya terjadi pada budidaya ikan di karamba jaring apung (KJA).
• Apabila pada mata dapat menyebabkan kebutaan, dan luka yang diakibatkannya merupakan pintu masuk bagi bakteri penginfeksi sekunder.
• Kematian akibat infeksi berat bisa mencapai 30%.


Gejala klinis :
• Luka serta pendarahan pada tempat gigitan, dan secara visual parasit ini tampak menempel pada tubuh ikan terutama pada sisik atau pada sirip (nampak setelah ikan yang terinfeksi direndam dalam air tawar untuk beberapa menit)
• Pada infeksi berat parasit tersebut bisa menginfeksi mata, sehingga mata ikan akan kelihatan memutih.


Diagnosa :
• Secara visual terlihat adanya parasit yang menempel pada tubuh ikan, kalau ikan ditempatkan dalam air tawar

Pengendalian :
• Merontokkan parasit dalam wadah terbatas dengan menggunakan air tawar selama 2-5 menit.
• Perendaman dalam larutan hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) pada dosis 150 ppm selama 10-30 menit.
• Setelah parasit rontok, ikan dipindahkan ke wadah lain untuk mencegah adanya infeksi sekunder oleh bakteri pada bekas gigitan parasit.

sumber : Kementerian Kelautan dan Perikanan, Direktorat Jenderal Perikanan Budidaya, Direktorat Kesehatan Ikan dan Lingkungan, 2010

Homemade Carp Bait Design - Formulating Your Own Recipes for Big Fish!

Author:

Tim Richardson

Being able to formulate your own homemade carp bait recipes is such a powerful edge! Even if you happen to be a commercial bait maker, the same skills and knowledge and creativity apply. So how can you do it as a beginner or reasonably skilled bait-making angler? Read on for some great expert tips you probably will never read anywhere else!

I speak to a number of commercial bait makers on a regular basis as friends, and I am intrigued at how there really is little difference between the process of formulating homemade baits compared to commercial ones. They both have to work on a variety of waters all year round and work instantly, and have the capability to out-fish competing baits due to special features, components or other actions or characteristics etc that they may offer.

But do not be confused about the word instant. In fact highly nutritionally-stimulating baits can very easily have great edges over over-flavoured baits. Also, highly stimulating nutritional baits can be over-flavoured; many lines of concepts and approaches to bait design can cross-over, blend and enhance each other. This really struck me when I did some bait testing of various substances for Rod Hutchinson among others around the late eighties when I knew the boilie base mixes had been optimised for nutritional attraction, but were also used with sometimes very significant levels of flavours, and these worked extremely successfully for me as I experimented with different flavour levels!

A good homemade bait maker will maximise his baits for maximum effect, whether he is fishing waters dominated by brands of popular readymade baits or not. One flaw of many anglers fixation with recipes is that you do not necessarily need highly complex recipes to catch loads of fish. For instance there have been countless occasions when a great flavour used in a very low nutritional value bait has caught the biggest fish in a lake long with very significant numbers of other fish. The butyrate in pineapple flavour for instance can be enhanced in various ways so that when it is used even very simple carbohydrate-based baits (which are really basically flavour carriers,) results are pretty good.

Unfortunately there appears to be a mindset among far too anglers these days that for instance a yellow bait should mean it has a pineapple flavour. This kind of thinking really is hilarious and shows just how illogical thinking about baits by many carp anglers has become. For a start, why should you use a yellow bait, why should you use a bait with any significant flavour anyway, and even why should you even use a standard boilie bait at all? How many anglers even know which components within most pineapple flavours actually initiate any response by carp at all?

How many anglers have figured out what tones carp most easily detect in what light and water conditions anyway? It takes work and often long experience to figure out such things in real fishing terms and not merely in theoretical terms. But so many anglers just want it all on a plate, given to them instantly, with a minimum of thought involved. Obviously this mindset leads to stagnation of thinking processes and development of development of the angler in many ways that ruins otherwise great chances and potential opportunities for catches that anglers are simply not aware of! And of course then the bait or rig or conditions or whatever else gets the blame for poor results!

So for you thinking anglers reading this, (and I know you are many otherwise why would you be this article,) an enquiring mind is never satiated, just like a carp should never be satisfied after eating your baits; he should always want more and more!

So now, how about me giving you a few suggestions for formulating your own homemade baits! What kinds of ideas might help you that might well make a difference? Well firstly, do not begin with recipes and do not begin with ingredients. Consider where carp live, how they evolved their bodies in response to the available nutrition they have had in their environment for millennia.

Could it be that the availability of protein-rich mussel, snails and bloodworm for instance influence how external and internal senses and have become extremely sensitive to minute levels of excretions such organisms expel into the water column; thus making them detectable to hungry fish needing the nutrition within those organisms in order to survive. What about digestive juice excretions along the length of the digestive tract of carp and the efficiency of the wall of the tract to absorb digested nutrition; what natural substances and materials have influenced the optimum performance of this structure and the processes that are performed by the body chemistry, and physically too?

When you begin your design with the fish and realise that everything in your bait must be detected by fish within a water environment not an air environment, that too really has a great bearing on your choices and decisions about how important different aspects of your bait will be and how to optimise your baits and their performance most appropriately. For instance it is far better not to boil you baits in water. Apart from damage to nutritional factors that stimulate fish feeding and habitual aspects about baits in regards to repetitive fish feeding, boiling in just water simply leaches out an enormous volume of materials that really should only be leached out when you fish with those baits.

The skins of baits boiled in water are very much leached of attraction to the degree that the smell of the coagulated eggs in baits boiled like this are very obviously apparent; this is definitely not a good thing in the competitive world of carp fishing today, but much worse, you have lost performance!

If you are boiling your baits and the water you boil you baits in is obviously pretty attractive after your boiling of baits that is an obvious sign that you have just lost loads of potential bait performance by losing substances you just leached out of your baits into the boiled water. If nothing else if you must boil baits, add things like molasses, or a sweetener, or enhancer or a syrup, or a soluble extract, or fruit juice or a puree or soluble fish meal, Oxo or Marmite or pure vanilla extract or maple syrup or whatever in order to replace something of what is lost!

Ideally you will fast steam baits if you do heat you baits, but remember that heating baits to make hard baits is certainly far from absolutely necessary. It used to be the case that most leading carp anglers did their fishing using soft soluble paste baits; and these baits caught loads of record carp you know!

So I guess you still want a recipe or some choices for recipes of your own to adapt. OK so you know that starting out your design from the fish perspective is the way to approach things. This means that literally everything you put into your bait has a very significant reason for being there! For instance, the core of a bait might be low temperature fish meal which is an exceptional digestible nutritional food source. You might decide to bind this with perhaps whey protein concentrate.

This exceptional soluble milk provides extremely high quality protein among other factors. You do not need to get into first limiting amino acids etc unless you really do have all the technical data on every single ingredient in your bait; The vast majority of carp baits work in spite of not being optimised for digestion efficiency and much of the protein in high nutritional value baits is not digested nor assimilated for a variety of reasons anyway!

Caseins have been a part of carp bait making for so many years. These have fantastic track record, and various forms can be combined to take best advantage of their impressive essential amino acid profiles which they supply to carp. 90 mesh acid casein for example provides soft centred baits for less dense, softer moister more soluble base mixes when made and can be utilised in an extremely wide range of bait applications. 30 mesh acid casein is a prime ingredient for many applications not just boilies, and pop-up or paste baits. It is ideal for harder more resilient baits against nuisance fish for example and helps binding. Casein has unique properties and a protein content in excess of 90 percent.

Calcium caseinate has been traditionally used in boilies pastes and pop-up mixes in varying levels depending on the buoyancy and density and solubility required as it can be utilised to for all these purposes. It may be used at 4 or 5 ounces per pound in base mixes and even 6 or 7 ounces in buoyant baits. Soluble milk ingredients are a very significant part of carp bait history through the decades so you can imagine how important they are.

I will diverge a bit here and just say you can make a very effective bait just using ordinary wheat flour, betaine, a liquid amino acid, vitamin, mineral and trace element complex along with a subtle flavour, plus maybe additional enhancers, bioactive and metabolic factors, maybe enzyme active substances, and a mixture of protein-based and carbohydrate-based sweeteners. In other words you can easily make fish respond to baits even if they are not high in protein. You base mix does not have to be high in protein at all. In fact it is pretty obvious that much of the proteins available in the very high protein baits of the seventies era for example could not be utilised by carp due to limiting factors for one thing!

Protein ingredients are certainly stimulatory to carp; in fact carp are exceptionally sensitive to the key amines they require for basic survival as the providers of the building blocks of life. They contribute to the make-up of essential substances in carp and humans too, for things such as transporting oxygen to where it is required in chemical processes, and in the production of digestive juices for example. Yes proteins are very vital for life, but certainly not the only answer when formulating successful fishing baits for carp, or catfish, or barbel, or tench or whatever.

I say this because for example, these fish and individuals within each fish species and strain are taste specific, meaning they are more sensitive to various taste substances, and different smell-related components. For example you can do very well on a bait with a particular flavour, but then if you add a particular edible dye in order to produce a highly visual bait you can easily transform that bait into a different maybe less successful bait due to the E numbers in the dye masking significant triggers and attractors within the bait, and such E numbers may even prove to be repellent even though they are classed as edible!

Remember that carp are more than doubly as sensitive as dogs OK! So here is some more food for thought, and I hope this has got your little grey cells buzzing! Revealed in my unique readymade bait and homemade bait carp and catfish bait secrets ebooks is far more powerful information look up my unique website (Baitbigfish) and see my biography below for details of my ebooks deals right now!

By Tim Richardson.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/homemade-carp-bait-design-formulating-your-own-recipes-for-big-fish-3421331.html

About the Author

Now why not seize this moment to improve your catches for life with these unique fishing bibles: 'BIG CARP FLAVOURS FEEDING TRIGGERS AND CARP SENSES EXPLOITATION SECRETS!' 'BIG CARP AND CATFISH BAIT SECRETS!' And 'BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!' For these and much more now visit:

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The home of the world-wide proven homemade bait making and readymade bait success secrets bibles and more unique free bait secrets articles by Tim Richardson!

Colorful Koi Carp

Author:

Don Miller

From their humble beginnings as fish food for Chinese rice farmers, these colorful Koi carp were brought to Japan in the 17th century, not only to be cultivated for cheap nutritious food for their own rice farmers, but also for their aesthetic appeal.

The colorful Koi carp are the domesticated varieties of the common carp. In fact, the word Koi comes from the Japanese word meaning “carp” which was where they were bred for the first time around the 1820’s.

Now Koi are considered to be one of the most popular fresh-water pond fish,, and can be found gracing the waters of millions of outdoor ponds all over the world.

They are not only loved for their variety of colors but also for the longevity of their lives. The longest living Koi ever recorded in history died at the rip old age of two hundred twenty-six.

Koi come in a huge variety of patterns and colors including, red, orange, yellow, black, white, silver or even blue or green. There are potentially thousands of different types of Koi, with about 20 different popular versions. Koi are popular because of their beautiful colors and designs.

Although Koi is simply a carp, modern specimens are products of selective breeding over many generations. Outside elements such as the environment that they live in and the diet they eat can also affect the color of Koi.

It is easy to understand the patience and skill it took for the first Japanese breeders to develop such a magnificent fish.

Koi are extremely social with other breeds of fish as long as they are not small enough to be eaten by these opportunistic

feeders. In a smaller pond Koi may seem to school together, but in larger areas they tend to split up into small groups.

Most fish owners understand that most fish will only grow to the size of their enclosure. However, because Koi can grow to be a large fish, they require and thrive in ponds that are about five hundred gallons or more.

It is important to keep the number of fish in a pond relative to the amount of water that the pond holds. The depth and size of the pond is extremely important.

A pond that contains a depth of at least four feet provides enough room for the colorful Koi to thrive. The health of the fish depends a lot upon the amount of space that Koi fish owners provide their fish with.

Koi can be kept outside in the winter. As the winter temperatures begin to drop, the colorful Koi fish will begin their winter hibernation, and their digestive systems will slow almost to a halt.

However, undigested food in their stomachs can grow rancid and could cause the fish to become sick. Because of this, Koi should not be feed in weather less the fifty degrees Fahrenheit.

Outdoor ponds can be relaxing when the sounds of the rippling water flows through the yard but, no pond is complete without a gorgeous ornamental fish like the Colorful Koi

Many Koi owners consider themselves lucky to be able to have these fish touch their lives and brighten up their worlds.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/colorful-koi-carp-984808.html

About the Author

Don Miller has been breeding Koi for over 25 years. If you found the article on Koi Care of interest, you will also find further information and articles at the Koi Guide website
http://www.go-to1.com/koi

The Amazing History Of Siamese Fighting Fish

Author:

Peter Myles

These small tropical fish are placid when on their own, and suprisingly aggressive towards other male Bettas. They can live in the smallest of bowls. In the wild they have even been found living in water-filled buffalo hoofprints...

Betta Fish (e.g. Siamese Fighting Fish) are tropical native fish to the Southern parts of Asia and the countries of Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia.

Betta Fish thrive in the natural wilderness, and in places where there is small reedy like pools, slow flowing creeks and shallow ponds. Considered the most beautiful of all tropical fish, they get their name 'Siamese Fighting Fish' (e.g. Betta Fish) because of their aggressiveness towards other male Bettas.

They\'re also aggressive in nature too because they have to survive in smaller bodies of water, and therefore tend to fiercely protect their area (where they live) or they\'ll lose out on breeding with a female Betta (who shares the male Bettas pond, stream, etc.) to a more dominate male Betta fish.

Sometimes Bred For Fighting

People have been breeding Siamese Fighting Fish for MANY thousands of years. In places like Thailand for example... they even breed betta fish for fighting. The Bettas which are bred as ornamental types are usually MUCH prettier though, than the Bettas bred for fighting.

These Siamese Fighting Fish we love to call betta fish also have a very unique characteristic which actually makes them much different in some respects to other types of tropical fish.

HOW?

Because these special fish can breath both through their gills, and through a special organ called the 'labyrinthine' which allows the Betta fish to take in pure oxygen when there is a limited supply of oxygen found in its water environment.

Maintaining Healthy Betta Fish

Bettas are fresh water tropical fish which love shallow water, and thrive in warmer temperatures around the 30° mark. Nevertheless, if you live in a more temperate climate, then you\'ll need to add an aquarium heater to your tank. This is especially so if the temperature of the water tends to drop below the 18° mark.

The Betta fish can oftentimes survive in poorer quality water, but you should always endeavor to change the water frequently to ensure that your pet Betta is happy, healthy and active. These gorgeous long fin beauties really do need their water changed at least 'one to three' times a week. And if you decide to put your pet Betta in a small bowl then you may need to change the water every few days.

Bettas are prone to pick-up a number of common diseases like dropsy and fin rot which in most cases are more or less associated with the quality of water in which they live. In a home tank environment there are special medicines available such as 'Bettafix' which is excellent for aquarium fish like the tropical Betta Fish.

Aquarium Tank Space

Although not advised a Betta fish will live in small bowls and tanks. Many times Bettas are kept in small plastic jars and even smaller glass containers or a betta tank purchased from the local pet shop.

It\'s always best though to keep Bettas in separate containers unless you are thinking about breeding. Another thing to watch out for is trying to put different varieties of tropical fish in a single bowl or tank.

WHY?

Because long finned, redish colored tropical fish almost always pick-on Betta Fish. Tropical fish such as 'tiger barbs, serpae, and even tetras' which tend to attact the Bettas flowing fin.

Anyone can own a Betta Fish. They\'re an especially good animal to have as a first-time pet owner or somebody that has very little time or space in their lives for a regular size pet.

And Betta fish are also very low maintenance as well.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/the-amazing-history-of-siamese-fighting-fish-1067656.html

About the Author

Peter Myles is an expert in the care and breeding of betta fish as well as betta fish care and offers free tips and advice at his website www.bettafishguru.com

Cacing Insang Pada Ikan Laut

Cacing Insang Pada Ikan Laut
Penyebab : Haliotrema spp., Psedorhabdosynochus spp.
Bio-Ekologi Patogen :
• Ekto-parasit bersifat obligat parasitik
• Menginfeksi insang ikan budidaya laut. Dua atau kemungkinan tiga spesies monogenea tergolong ke dalam Genus Pseudorhabdosynochus yaitu Pseudorhabdosynochus latesi. P. monosquamodiscusi, dan Diplectanum penangi, sementara P. epinepheli ditemukan pada kelompok ikan kerapu.


Gejala Klinis :
• Warna tubuh pucat, nafsu makan menurun, kurus, dan lamban
• Frekwensi pernapasan meningkat dan produksi mukus pada insang berlebih
• Berkumpul/mendekat ke air masuk
• Insang pucat atau membengkak sehingga operkulum terbuka

Diagnosa :
• Pengamatan secara visual terhadap tingkah laku dan gejala klinis yang timbul
• Pengamatan secara mikroskopis untuk melihat morfologi
parasit melalui pembuatan preparat ulas dari organ insang.


Pengendalian :
• Mengurangi kadar bahan organik terlarut dan/atau meningkatkan frekwensi pergantian air
• Ikan yang terserang cacing insang dengan tingkat prevalensi dan intensitas yang rendah, pengobatan dapat dilakukan dengan perendaman dalam larutan formalin pada dosis 25-50 ppm selama 24 jam atau lebih.
sumber : Kementerian Kelautan dan Perikanan, Direktorat Jenderal Perikanan Budidaya, Direktorat Kesehatan Ikan dan Lingkungan, 2010

Adding Extras To Your Fish Tank

Author:

Jody Siena

After you have purchased your aquarium, filters, heaters, gravel, floss, buffers, food, fish, and so on, you will need to learn how to clean and care for the fish. In fact, you should have researched the market before purchasing fish or aquariums to have an overall view of how to care for fish and maintain fish tanks. To help you learn more about fish care and aquariums however, we can consider a few helpful tips.

Heaters

Heaters are necessary to maintain tropical fish. Before your purchase your heater however, you should make sure that the filters and heater would fit into your aquarium without taking up unnecessary space. If you purchased a small tank, you will need to purchase filters and a heater than will accommodate the tank; otherwise, you may need to purchase a larger tank.

What to buy

When you purchase your tank, you will also want to buy a gravel, plants, ornaments, food, test kits, water treatment, etc. Gravel helps to maintain natural resources, while ornaments provide a lively décor to your fish tank. Plants make the fish feel at home, while food is necessary to prolong life. You will need a test kit to keep an eye on the water’s health. Water treatment is ideal, since tap water is not pure in most areas.

Gravel Care:

The first thing you should do is grab a bucket and rinse your gravel to remove grime, dirt, and germs. After you purify the gravel, you will need to add water to the tank. At this time only, add half the water needed to deliver a full supply. Now, you can add your ornaments and plants to the aquarium. Once you have all your additives to the tank, you are ready to finish filling the tank with water. You should have received a manual with your tank. Follow the outlines to fill the tank properly. Once the tank is filled, you can add your heater and filtration systems. You will receive instructions with the purchase of your heater and filters, which you should follow accordingly. The last thing you will add to the tank is the water treatment. Water treatment will remove copper, metal, and related harmful chemicals. You can use products that will enable you to add your fish to the tank; otherwise, it is recommended that you wait at least a couple of weeks before adding fish.

Water filled tanks have natural bacterial productions, which must filter to settle to a secure level for fish to swim safely. After the water has set, you can use your test kit to decide if the water temperature and chemicals are balanced. After the water is verified, i.e. pure you can start adding fish to the tank in small amounts. The recommended fish is the damsel; however, this is a saltwater fish. The aggressive fish will devour passive fish. Therefore, if you start with damsels, only add two of the same fish and gradually start adding other fish. If you choose, freshwater fish try to keep passive fish in the tank, rather than aggressive fish.

If you want a selection of saltwater fish and freshwater fish perhaps, you should purchase two aquariums. White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Danios, goldfish, etc are nice starter fish. Additional types of fish include the bristle nose, which is a passive fish that grows around 5.5 inches. The Otocinclus is also a passive fish that grows 2 inches and prefers to live in rocks and plant areas, just as the bristle nose. Plecostomas is a passive fish, which grows 24 inches, and lives around plants and rocks as well. Marble and Veitail are passive fish, which both grow around 6 inches and prefer to live around rocks and plants.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/adding-extras-to-your-fish-tank-817407.html

About the Author

Information on dangerous sharks can be found at the Types Of Sharks site.

Budidaya Polikultur (Udang Windu, Bandeng dan Gracilaria)

Budidaya Polikultur (Udang Windu, Bandeng dan Gracilaria)

Banyaknya lahan tambak yang ”idle” (terbengkalai) di hampir semua daerah pesisir indonesian dan khususnya pantura jawa, sebagai indikasi tidak produktifnya tambak. Faktor penyebab tambak ”idle” tersebut diantaranya adalah para petambak masih traumatik dengan adanya beberapa kasus penyakit udang dan terissu degradasi lingkungan baik perairan eksternal maupun internal tambak. Hal ini membuat sebagian besar petambak menunggu alternatif sistem/model pemeliharaan yang sesuai untuk diterapkan.

Diharapkan agar komoditas udang masih tetap eksis budidayakan di tambak dan tambak tetap produktif salah satu alternatif trobosan dalam revitalisasi tambak dan menghidupkan tambak-tambak kembali tetap produktif adalah melalui budidaya pembesaran multispesies dalam satu sistem pemeliharaan dengan pararel dan resirkulasi.

Budidaya polikultur udang, bandeng, rumput laut di tambak merupakan penggabungan teknologi monokultur udang, bandeng dan rumput laut. Namun, secara ekologi perairan, gabungan ketiga komoditas dalam satu sistem budidaya saling memberikan pengaruh positif. Dalam hal ini, glacilaria dapat menyerap racun dan limbah organik sehingga menstabilkan lingkungan dan menghasilkan oksigen yang dibutuhkan oleh udang dan bandeng.


selengkapnya.................................



sumber : http://www.perikanan-budidaya.dkp.go.id

Extensive Fish Care

Author:

Jody Siena

Fish care is extensive, since it depends on the type of fish you have. If you have damsels, which are saltwater fish then you should have a large reef tank, or marine tank. Damsels are resilient, which the fish are capable of withstanding harsh water conditions. In addition, the fish do not fuss over what they eat. Damsels however are not in distress; rather the fish can be aggressive. It is recommended that you put no more than two damsels in the same tank. If you add, more damsels or different fish prepare to lose money. If you intend to add other types of fish, make sure the creatures are aggressive also. Otherwise, purchase a new tank to store less aggressive, or delicate fish.

If you haven’t purchased saltwater fish at this time, look for the yellow tail damsels, blue damsels, and so on, since these fish are less aggressive. The Domino and 3-striped damsels are much more aggressive. Most people purchase damsels, since the fish are easiest to take care of, as well the fish are not as costly as other types of fish.

If you have other types of fish, you want to maintain the tank, making sure that the waters hardness is balanced. Waters alkali is concentrated and measured in terms of pH. It depends on the amount of magnesium and calcium dissolved in fish water, as to how hard the water is measured. Carbonates, hydroxides, bicarbonates, borates, and silicates dissolved in water determine the alkalinity balance. You want to purchase test kits to balance hardness in fish water. Test kits include a measuring device, which expresses pH, alkinity, and hardness of water in PPM. (Parts per million) For instance, hard water is measured at 100, yet it can reach as high as 200 in hardness and alkalinity. Since, fish require a degree of hard water it is advised that you purchase a pH buffer, as well as a test kit.

If you have mollies, the fish can get used to salt water. However, freshwater fish typically desire unadulterated water. Mollie fish are inexpensive fish as well. The fish then can live in higher or lower pH balanced waters. To adapt the fish to saltwater, you want to start out by keeping the fish bagged in water and slowly drenching the fish over an 8-hour period in saltwater. You want to remove water from the bags before it overflows. Once you adapt the mollies to saltwater, you can prepare them for tank water. However, it is recommended that you avoid mixing the mollies with aggressive fish, such as the 3-striped damsels, etc.

Akin to the damsels, is the clown fish. The clownfish are also resilient. However, these fish find it difficult to adapt to new environments. Since clownfish are very protective, yet the fish typically battle other clown fish. Like damsels and other saltwater fish, the fish prefer reef tanks. Reef tanks include underwater ridges, which houses rocks and coral within the body of water. The water top is right below or slightly above the surface.

How to care for shrimp?

Shrimp (NO I didn’t call you a shrimp) fish include a variety of fish which each differ slightly in their need for care. The clean shrimps have a white strip on red down the center of their back. This fish is one of the fewer shrimps to have, since maintenance is relatively a low demand. You should keep the clean fish in a low capacity fish tank. That is, do not add more than 4 fish to a single tank. Sometimes make fish choices is not easy, especially since thousands are available.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/extensive-fish-care-817440.html

About the Author

Find tips about aquarium sharks and facts about sharks at the Types Of Sharks website.

Budidaya Udang Vaname

Budidaya Udang Vaname

Udang Vaname (Penaeus vannamei) di Indonesia merupakan jenis udang introduksi dari kawasan sub-tropis sekitar perairan negara Meksiko, Amerika Latin. Meskipun asal udang vaname dari kawasan sub-tropis, dalam pengembangannya dapat pula dibudidayakan di kawasan tropis secara massal dengan penerapan teknologi dari sederhana hingga intensif.



Bila dibandingkan dengan jenis udang lainnya, udang vaname memiliki karakteristik spesifik seperti adaptasi tinggi terhadap lingkungan suhu rendah, perubahan salinitas (khususnya pada salinitas tinggi), laju pertumbuhan yang relatif cepat pada bulan I dan II dan kelansungan hidup tinggi. Dengan keunggulan yang dimiliki tersebut, jenis udang ini sangat potensi dan prospektif pengembangannya.



KONSTRUKSI TAMBAK

Teknologi yang diperkenalkan melalui leaflet ini adalah Semi Intensif. Dalam budidaya udang semi intensif, sistem budidaya yang diterapkan sebaiknya memakai sistem “ resirkulasi” dengan rasio luas tambak 40% : 60% antara petak tandon dengan petak pemeliharaan. Konstruksi tambak terutama tanggul/pematang harus kuat, kedap air (tidak rembes dan bocor), tidak mudah longsor, pintu masuk dan keluar terpisah, bentuk caren melintang di tengah dasar tambak.

Gambar 1. Tata Letak Tambak

Jenis dan fungsi petakan dan saluran tambak yang diperlukan dalam budidaya udang semi intensif dengan sistem resirkulasi tertutup yaitu :

- Petak tambak karantina yang berfungsi sebagai petak isolasi air media, baik air baru ataupun air lama (air resirkulasi);

- Saluran suplai air yang menampung air dengan baku mutu air standar, yang didistribusikan ke petak-petak pembesaran;

- Petak pembesaran dipergunakan sebagai petak pemeliharaan udang hingga panen;

- Saluran pembuangan yang berasal dari petak pembesaran, berfungsi sebagai saluran pengendapan lumpur/limbah.;

- Petak tandon (bio filter/ bio screen) petak tambak yang dipelihara organisme jenis ikan multispeies dan ikan (bioscreen/biofilter) guna untuk memangsa hama penular penyakit udang;

- Petak unit pengolah limbah berfungsi sebagai petak penampungan air buangan kotoran (limbah) udang, terutama air buangan limbah tambak;

- Elevasi dasar tambak petak pembesaran udang terhadap saluran pembuangan (air surut terendah) yang standar dan ideal akan mempermudah pengelolaan air dan pembuangan lumpur/kotoran, baik secara harian maupun dalam kondisi tertentu.

- Central drain; adalah sistem pembuangan air yang dibuat /diletakan di titik konsentrasi pengumpulan kotoran, yaitu pada bagian tengah petak pembesaran udang;

- Pintu monik; adalah model pintu pembuangan air yang terbuat dari pasangan bata/batu dan cor semen. Pintu pengatur berada pada pematang bagian sisi dalam, sementara buis beton pembuangan air menghadap ke saluran pembuangan air;

- Pematang dan dasar tambak; Dimensi pematang yang ideal (dibuat dari tanah) untuk tambak udang adalah lebar atas antara 2,5 – 3,5 m, lebar bawah antara 7,0 – 9,0 m dan tinggi antara 1,5 – 2,0 m, kemiringan/slope 45 – 60 derajat.



PENGELOLAAN TAMBAK

Pengelolaan tambak meliputi : pengeringan, pembalikan tanah, pengapuran dan pemasukan air. Pengeringan dasar tambak dapat dilakukan selama 7-10 hari sampai tanah dasar tambak retak-retak, kemudian dilakukan pembalikan tanah. Jika pH tanah kurang dari 6,5, maka perlu dilakukan pengapuran dengan dosis seperti pada tabel 1, kemudian dilanjutkan dengan pemasukan air.

Tabel 1. Dosis kapur berdasarkan pH tanah

PEMELIHARAAN UDANG

Penyiapan Media Air Tahapan pada proses penyiapan media air adalah :

• Sterilisasi media air : dengan aplikasi kaporit 30 ppm dan saponin 10-12 ppm

• Pengisian air : dilakukan hingga ketinggian mencapai 0,8-1,0 m

• Pemupukan awal : pupuk organik 300-500 kg/ha

• Adaptasi media air : tingkat kecerahan air awal berkisar 40-45 cm.



Pemilihan dan Penebaran Benih

Ciri-ciri benur yang sehat :

• Ukuran seragam

• Gerakan lincah dan menantang arus

• Respon terhadap gerakan

• Putih transparan, kaki bersih, isi usus tidak putus, adaptif terhadap perubahan salinitas dan bebas virus

Padat penebaran yang optimal pada pembesaran udang vaname dengan teknologi semi intensif adalah 15 – 40 ekor per meter persegi atau 150.000 – 400.000 ekor/ha.



Masa Pemeliharaan Tahapan yang dilakukan dalam pemeliharaan adalah :

• Pengaturan dan pemberian pakan

• Manajemen plankton

• Pengelolaan air



Pengamatan kondisi dan pertumbuhan udang

Hal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan adalah :

• Kesehatan dan kondisi udang

• Pertambahan berat harian

• Tingkat kelangsungan hidup, serta

• Biomass



PENGELOLAAN KESEHATAN UDANG

Pengamatan dan monitoring kesehatan udang di tambak dilakukan melalui pengamatan secara visual terhadap nafsu makan, pertumbuhan, kelengkapan organ dan jaringan tubuh.

Ciri-ciri udang yang kurang sehat adalah :

• Terdapat bakteri Zoothammium sp pada insang dan tubuh

• Karapas (kepala) dan kulit abdomen (badan) berlumut

• Ekor gerepes, insang kotor, antena putus

• Daging udang keropos, warna tubuh dan ekor kemerahan.



Pengamatan Rutin

Pengamatan di anco dilakukan untuk melihat populasi dan kesehatan setiap saat

Ciri-ciri udang sehat adalah :

• Gerakan aktif, berenang normal dan melompat bila anco di angkat

• Respon positif terhadap arus, cahaya, bayangan dan sentuhan

• Tubuh bersih, licin, berwarna cerah, belang putih yang jelas

• Tubuh tidak keropos, anggota tubuh lengkap

• Kotoran tidak mengapung

• Ujung ekor tidak geripis

• Ekor dan kaki jalan tidak menguncup

• Insang jernih atau putih serta bersih

• Kondisi usus penuh, tidak terputus-putus Pencegahan Penyakit

• Air pemeliharaan diusahakan bebas kontaminasi virus dengan kaporit atau pengendapan dan filtrasi dengan biofilter

• Pemeliharaan fitoplankton sebagai penyerap racun melalui aplikasi pupuk urea

• Pengamatan secara rutin terhadap pH, suhu, salinitas dan kecerahan air

• Lakukan disiplin kaidah, aturan dan prinsip utama budidaya udang yang berwawasan lingkungan

Gambar 2. Manajeman pemeliharaan

PEMANENAN HASIL DAN ANALISA USAHA

Pemanenan dilakukan setelah umur pemeliharaan >100 hari atau size udang telah mencapai 50 ekor/kg. Pemanenan dapat dilakukan dengan menggunakan jala atau ditangkap melalui pintu air dengan mengeringkan tambak.

Analisa usaha pembesaran budidaya udang vaname semi intensif dalam satu musim tanam seluas 1 ha, dengan padat penebaran 40 ekor per meter persegi, dapat menghasilkan keuntungan sebesar Rp. 50.000.000,-Lebih jelasnya contoh analisa usaha pembesaran budidaya udang vaname semi intensif dengan luas total unit 2 ha dengan petak pembesaran 1 ha dapat dilihat pada tabel 2..

Tabel 2.

Dari contoh analisa usaha pembesaran udang vaname semi intensif di atas, maka besarnya nilai B/C dapat dihitung sebagai berikut : B /C Ratio = Jumlah Penerimaan : Total Biaya = 148.400.000 : 96.277.900 = 1,54 Dengan nilai B/C Ratio dari analisa usaha di atas sebesar 1,5 artinya bahwa kondisi usaha pembesaran udang vaname semi intensif tersebut sangat baik sekali diusahakan/diteruskan

sumber : http://www.perikanan-budidaya.dkp.go.id

Before You Make Any Serious Mistakes With Your Fish Koi Pond

Author:

Jessica Arons

When you\'re new to Koi, it\'s easy to get over-enthusiastic about getting started with building the fish Koi pond. That is, until you find out how much money it\'s going to cost you.



Yes, Koi keeping is a hobby that could raise cause for alarm in your pocket book. It\'s not something you want to jump into without making sure you can afford it first.



That said; keeping Koi is not completely unaffordable. There are money-saving opportunities in building the pond. One of these options is by buying a pond liner instead of building a block and concrete pond.



Now, I\'m not against pond liners. I\'m sure that there are some brands available that have proven to be very effective liners. It\'s just that unless you know pond liners like the back of your hand, my advice is you\'re probably better off not buying one.



Pond liners generally cost less up front than a concrete fish Koi pond, but when you take into account the near-impossibility of laying the liner in the hole and ironing out all the creases, while taking care not to puncture any part of it ... the effort is simply not worth it.



Another way you might be able to save money is by building your own Koi pond. After all, how hard can it be to dig a hole, cement it in, fill it with water and throw a couple of fish in, right? That\'s what I told myself before I practically pulled all my hair out with frustration and rage over all the mistakes I made.



Take it from me. If you\'re going to be spending the money anyway, spend it wisely. If you don\'t have any experience in Koi pond building, or any skill with concrete, don\'t start by building your own Koi pond. At least don\'t do it without expert help.



If there\'s anything you get out of reading this, I hope it\'s: Always Ask for Professional Advice. Because with keeping a fish Koi pond, when something goes wrong, it REALLY goes kaput. Leaks are your worst possible enemy. Believe me when I say this: Pay the pros. It is money well spent.



I\'m not saying that you can\'t get involved in the process. On the contrary - you need to be very involved. You can share your pond visions with your professional builder - where you want it, how big you want the pond, the shape of the pond and so forth. The more specific you are, the easier it will be for them to do their job, and the happier you will be with the end result.



The next lesson I hope you get out of reading this is: Beware of Cheap Quotes. That sends the red flag up in my book. If a pond builder quote is too good to be true, it probably is. Don\'t go with cheap - it\'ll come back to bite you in the pocket.



A fish Koi pond is very complex and when built the right way, will cost more than having a swimming pool built. Don\'t laugh. I\'m not making this up.



Another lesson to learn from embarking on this great adventure called Koi keeping is this: Koi Ponds are Permanent. I know that sounds obvious, but it still needs to be said. Because they are permanent, you need to plan ahead and keep a couple of thoughts in mind while having the pond built:



1. If you plan on using a liner, have a plan ready for when the liner expires (yes, they have expected expiration dates). Having a liner pond may cost you less in the short run, but you\'ll make it up when it expires. I advise having a concrete pond built by an experienced professional. You pay more up front, but you save money (not to mention your sanity) in the long run.



2. Hire an architect who has experience in designing fish Koi pond structures to design yours. Ask for references you can contact. This is important. I have seen many strikingly designed Koi ponds that can\'t keep a Koi alive in it. (Sorry, architects.)



Make sure the architect and pond builder can work together - you want all the features to be functional too, otherwise you\'ll be spending a ton of money and time correcting mistakes that could have been avoided in the first place. A properly designed and planned Koi pond might take some time and a little bit of money, but you won\'t regret the expense when enjoying the longevity of rewards in the long run.



3. Bottom drains are KEY. Get one built in.



4.Join your local Koi Society. See what others have done. Ask questions. Any fish Koi pond owner will be more than happy to give you as much information about Koi keeping as your ears can handle! It\'s always best to see and experience Koi in person.



Points to ponder when designing your Koi pond:



1. Building a Koi pond is like building a house. It\'s about Location, Location, Location. Do you have building restrictions? Do you want the pond in the sun or in the shade or a little of both? Put the pond somewhere you go to every day.



2. Architecture. Make sure the theme of the pond matches the rest of your living space. Your architect can help you with this.



3. Size. In this case, bigger is better.



4. Depth. Minimum 1.5 meters. The deeper the better.



5. Level. Do you want it at ground level or raised?



6. Fiberglass or not?

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/before-you-make-any-serious-mistakes-with-your-fish-koi-pond-944528.html

About the Author
Get your FREE 10 day Koi Carp Fish Care mini course, today. Jessica Arons specializes in Koi fish care and is currently working with the Koi Fish School team. For more great tips on a Fish Koi Pond visit The Koi Fish School today.